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Lock replacement in Bordeaux

Changing a lock is not always necessary: very often, replacing just the cylinder is enough. But you need to know how to tell the two apart, and to choose a model genuinely suited to your door.

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Cylinder or complete lock: two different jobs

The cylinder — called the barillet or canon in French — is the part you insert the key into. It is what carries the key's unique combination. It comes out after removing a single screw on the edge of the door, and can be replaced without touching the rest of the mechanism.

The lock is the whole mechanism: the case, the bolts, the rod linkage on a multipoint model, the faceplate visible on the edge of the door leaf. It is replaced when the mechanism itself is at fault.

In concrete terms: a lost key, a house move, a departing tenant, a copy in circulation? The cylinder is enough. A bolt that no longer extends, a bent rod linkage, a torn-off faceplate, a door that no longer locks properly? Then the lock itself needs attention.

The main types of lock

The type of lock determines which replacement parts you can choose. On a front door, it is rarely possible to switch from one family to another without altering the door or the frame.

  • Mortice lock

    The lock case sits inside the thickness of the door leaf, with only the faceplate visible. This is the most common fitting on modern front doors.

  • Surface-mounted (rim) lock

    The case is fixed to the inside face of the door. Common in older properties, and on doors too thin to be morticed.

  • Multipoint lock

    Three, five or seven locking points spread over the height of the door leaf. Locking at the top and bottom prevents the door being lifted off its hinges or prised away from the frame.

  • Shielded multipoint lock

    A variant of the multipoint lock whose rod linkage is protected by a cover. Neater in appearance, and the linkage cannot be reached from the inside.

Understanding A2P certification

A2P is a certification issued by the CNPP following break-in resistance tests carried out in a laboratory. It is expressed in stars, which correspond to a measured resistance time against defined tools and methods.

One star means five minutes of resistance, two stars ten minutes, three stars fifteen minutes. These times are not trivial: most break-in attempts are abandoned if they drag on, because the risk of being spotted grows with the time spent at the door.

Beware of a common misunderstanding: an A2P-certified cylinder fitted to an ordinary lock does not turn the whole assembly into an A2P lock. The certification applies to a specific product in a specific configuration. If your insurance policy requires a certain certification level, read carefully exactly what it demands — the lock, the cylinder, or both.

How to choose the right model

The choice is made in three steps. First, mechanical compatibility: the lock centres, the backset (the distance between the edge of the door and the centre of the cylinder), the cylinder length on either side, the direction of opening, the thickness of the door leaf. A cylinder that is too long protrudes and offers a grip for snapping; too short, and the key cannot work properly.

Next, the level of protection you are aiming for, in keeping with the rest of the door: there is no point fitting a top-of-the-range cylinder on a door whose frame is rotten or whose hinges are exposed. The security of any entrance is only ever as strong as its weakest link.

Finally, everyday convenience: a reversible key, a master key system if several doors need to open with the same key, an override (clutch) cylinder that can be opened from outside even when a key has been left in on the inside, or a thumbturn knob on the inside.

Co-owned buildings: what to check before changing anything

In a Bordeaux apartment building, the front door of your own flat is generally a private element: you are entitled to change its lock. But the building's co-ownership rules may require a uniform appearance for doors opening onto communal areas, or prohibit any alteration visible from the outside.

If your key also opens the entrance hall or the bicycle store, the replacement must preserve that arrangement: this is what is meant by a master key system, and it has to go through the managing agent (syndic) or the supplier who manages the building's keys.

As a tenant, you may replace a faulty lock, but you must return the property in its original state or hand a set of keys to the landlord at the end of the lease. Notify your landlord in writing.

Frequently asked questions — lock and cylinder replacement

Can I change just the cylinder without touching the lock?

Yes, in the vast majority of cases. A euro cylinder comes out after undoing one screw on the faceplate and is replaced with a model of the same dimensions. It is the standard solution after losing your keys, moving house or changing tenants.

How long does a lock replacement take?

Replacing a cylinder on a standard door is a quick operation. Replacing a complete multipoint lock, particularly a shielded one, takes considerably longer and may require adjustments to the door frame. The exact time depends on your door: you will be told after an on-site inspection.

My insurance requires an A2P lock — how do I check?

Re-read the specific conditions of your policy, under the "prevention" or "protective measures" section. They state the level required and whether the requirement applies to the lock, the cylinder or both. Keep the invoice and the product data sheet: you will be asked for them in the event of a claim.

Should I change the lock after simply moving house?

It is strongly recommended. You have no idea how many copies were made by the previous occupants, or whose hands they are in. Replacing the cylinder is a simple precaution when you move in.

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